The Ancient Roman Forum--Discovering a Sicilian Restaurant

Victor Emmanuel Monument from the Ciao Roma bustop

Friday, May 27, LT, Eli, and Allie got up, had terrific coffee (the coffee machine reportedly cost 5000 Euros) in the Giuliana breakfast room, and then bought tickets for the "Hop on, Hop off" 24 hour Ciao Roma bus ride.  This meant they could take a bus to each of 10 choice Rome tourist destinations--Termini Train Station, Palazzo Berberini, Via Veneto, Colloseo, Vatican, etc.  There were ear plugs to give them a proper British-Italian overview of the history of each stop, and they had wonderful seats on top of a double-decker bus.

LT in the Borghese Gardens

They hopped off at the Borghese Gardens and walked down cool shady lanes lined with tall green trees.  They had hopped to visit the art museum, but though it was only Friday, the museum was booked up until Tuesday.  As a compromise, they booked for the following Sunday, the day they will be returning from their one-week Mediterranean cruise.  Walking back through the paths of the Borghese Gardens, they hopped back on the Ciao Roma bus at Via Veneto, and this time got off at the Palatine Hill.

It was nearly lunch time, so when the three travellers discovered how to enter the Ancient Roman Forum, they walked around to the other end of the Colliseum, and entered what had been one of Eli and LT's favorite restaurants back in the early 80's--Al Gladiatore.  Alas, the restaurant is not offering real quality food anymore.  It is now one step above a pizzaria.  Being very hungry, however, the trio made the best of it, ordering a bland bianco wine and three salads.  After restoring their energy, they marched back across to the entrance to the forum and the Palatine Hill and travelled back into ancient time.

At 2:00PM, they each paid 12 euros and entered the ancient Roman Forum.  Bordred by the huge hulk of the Colliseum at one end, and the great white "wedding cake" of the Victor Emmanuel monument on the other side, they strolled among the green grass and red poppies that punctuate the 2000 year old ruins of Roman civilization.

In the hot, humid, Roman afternoon, they walked past ancient "shops" and what must have been apartments in the forum.  Every 50 yards, there seemed to be 2 or 3 forlorn Roman columns--all that remained of complete temples.

Allie and the Arch of Constantine

After LT took his usual siesta, they went to "Melo" a Sicilian restaurant recommended by the Hotel owner.  It was incredible.  To get there, they walked "down" Via Nazionale towards Piazza Venezia.  They spent a good deal of time asking directions and going off in various directions.  They asked 3 or 4 different people for directions and never quite got the correct information.  Finally, however, they crossed behind some ruins, got a distant view of the Colliseum in the pink twilight and, looking up an imposing wide staircase, saw the door to "Melo."  Standing outside with a big smile on his face was a waiter they would later come to know as Vincenzo. 

The sunset view from the steps outside Melo restaurant

Melo was quiet and nearly empty.  Sicilian folk music was playing, a guitar hung behind the cash register and the environment immediately communicated peace and pleasure to the hungry travellers.  They sat at a red leather booth, ordered un litro de bianco, followed by ensalada mista, la bella carbonara, then Allie had pasta with porcini mushrooms, LT had veal saltimboca--veal stuffed with parma ham--and Eli had veal in lemon caper sauce.  The food was very tasty, the best they had eaten in Rome.  Vincenzo had immediately sensed that we wanted to share our portions of the salad and carbonara, so when he brought the food to the table, he brought extra plates for the salad and the carbonara had already been doled out into three tiny plates.  Listening to the Sicilian music, eating the flavorful food, complimenting Vincenzo on the freshness of the ingredients, they spent a happy dinner hour together.  When Vincenzo (a native of Messina) heard they were going on a cruise to Sicily, he gave them a recommendation for a restaurant in Taormina--"Sperlonga" in the Naxos Gardens.   Taormina is about 20 kilometers from Messina and has a terrific Green temple that is a "must" for all sight-seers.  Vincenzo gave them the card of the restaurant and wrote a note on the back.  Suddenly,  by this kind act, it felt as if the American travellers had been made honorary Sicilians.  After LT had a de-cafe expresso, the three walked back up Via Nazionale, turned right at Agostino De Pretis and re-entered their hotel.  They all slept soundly that night.

Spaghetti Carbonara at Melos