Xania—A Sunny Day in Crete

June 3.  Almost expecting their day in Crete to be a bit of a bore, after all the historic ruins in Athens and Ephesus, the travelers got up at 7:00AM, had breakfast at their usual circular “nook” in Windjammer at 8:00AM, and walked off the ship at 9:30AM.    They bought round-trip tickets on the bus into town (for 3 Euros each) and got on.  From the actual port of Soudia, there was a long, uneventful bus ride into the real down of Xania. 

Navigator in Xania port

Once they arrived at the bustling central bus stop in the town square, they sensed that this would be a wonderful day.  It was 72 degrees, sunny, with a blue sky.  They walked through the main cross-shaped agora and enjoyed inhaling all the aromas of spices, leather, flowers, coffee, meat and fish.  They made mental notes of stores they wished to visit on their return trip. 

Exiting the agora, they drifted left, then right, wandering among very prosperous modern shops selling high fashion clothes and jewelry.  At certain points there were inviting-looking outdoor restaurants and tavernas with tables and chairs spread out under shady trees.  They kept drifting through the town until they reached a small semi-circular bay surrounded by more restaurants—it was like a miniature Portofino.  This actually marked the old Venetian port of the city.  They walked out to the Venetian fort at the entrance to the bay, saw the view of the azure blue waters—which looked as clean and inviting as any vista in Hawaii.

They walked and explored until almost 11:30AM, then selected a restaurant at the top of an incline, so they could see down two “typical” winding Greek streets – with signs for “Casa de l’Amore.”  When they asked the proprietor of the restaurant if it were too early for lunch, he said, “Now is the best time.  Before it gets crowded.” And he told them to choose any table they wanted.

They collaborated on choosing the lunch menu, Allie suggesting some spicy lamb sausages and Kalamarakia, Eli selecting tzatziki and melitzana salada (egg plant) and LT holding out for a spinach and fennel sort of tart/pizza.  The waiter kept bringing plenty of sliced bread with a crispy crust.  They ordered half litres of white wine which the waiter replenished when he say they were getting low.  He also gave us a complimentary mini-carafe (in a clear glass bottle) of “raki” – a kind of Greek “grappa” made from left over grapes after the wine has been crushed out of them.  The raki was strong, and interesting, but since it was hot and the middle of the day, they didn’t drink much of it. 

Sipping Greek "raki" in Xania

They did, however, really enjoy the food.  The eggplant was colored brown, like real eggplant.  Often, the eggplant salad is pale.  But this was quite tasty.   The tzatziki had fresh cucumbers, dill, onions, a hint of garlic, and plenty of yogurt.  The lamb sausage was very tasty.  The fennel/spinach tart was enclosed in a crisp tortilla-like covering and was a delight to eat.  The Kalama Rakia was fresh, still hot from the oil, and a joy to eat.  Eli kept looking for a squid “eye” to feed LT, but luckily, she couldn’t find one. 

They kept remarking to themselves how nice it was that they had anticipated that Xania was going to be a let-down, and instead, it turned out to be an entrancing Greek village on the seaside, with picturesque winding streets, inviting tavernas, friendly people, and lots of Greek “atmosphere.”  The waiter confessed that he had lived all his life in Athens, had been in Xania only a month, but was convinced it was the best place in the world.    The whole meal cost 38 Euros. 

Restaurant in Xania

They finished lunch, walked back by the picturesque bay, threaded through the narrow Greek streets, each of which seemed to have one or two tavernas in which they might have had a really good meal, and wound up back at the central agora.   Inside, they agreed too split up for 30 minutes, while LT shopped for belts and Eli and Allie bought souvenirs.  LT, who detests shopping, found a good leather shop where he located a black and a brown belt of pure leather actually made in Italy—none of this thin veneer of leather covering a central strip of paper—like so many Chinese belts he gets at Ross.   He also got leather “wallet” for his keys, hoping the Honda keys won’t be too big to fit into the case.

They met up at 1:30PM, walked down to the bus stop for the cruise ship, and took the journey back to the boat.  The bus was crowded and they had to stand, but they had had a wonderful day, almost a “dream” day in Crete.

Eli and Allie attended a Motown concert in the Metropolitan Theater at 7:00 PM (which had the audience dancing in their seats,) while LT continued to read his kindle—he is enjoying reading the short stories of Ivan Turgenev.  They ate dinner in Windjammer.  Allie choosing Indian flavored dishes.  LT getting big salads then dipping into the Lamb Vindaloo which Allie recommended.  They had a cheese course.  And a concluding chocolate course, too.

Tomorrow will be a day at sea.  They will cruise through the “Straits of Messina” which separate the “toe” of Italy from the “football” of Sicily.  It should be fun.