Musei Vaticani e Basilica di San Pietro

Allie and LT pose in front of St. Peter's.

May 28, Saturday, they rose early.  In fact, LT was so eager for his cappucino that he left Eli and Allie selecting their wardrobe and took his breakfast alone.  Federico "drew" him another superb cappucino--dark rich, sweet coffee with a marbled swirl of whipped cream and coffee on top.  LT savored his cup, munched on a croissant, yogurt, banana and contemplated the day ahead which was focused entirely on the Vatican--first La Capella Sistina for the Michelangelo frescos and then the actual Basilica.

The crowded piazza of St. Peter's.

They walked up Via Nazionale and descended the stairs to Piazza Republica Metro.  Six stops later, after crossing the Tevere, they got off at Octaviano and followed the crowds around the large bastion, fortress walls of the Vatican until they found their place in a half-mile long line to gain entrance to the Vatican Museums, which house the Sistine Chapel.  The line was thick, long, slow and filled with an assortment of Roman beggars and touts--seeking to sell quick tickets for 35 Euros that let tourists avoid the lines.  We waited patiently, and in less than 30 minutes were inside.  A savvy and kind ticket seller inside gave us a discount and we mounted the stairs.  After traversing numerous long, long, long corridors lined with sculptures, tapestries, and various other art treasures, they descended a few steps and reached "the big bisquit" -- Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel.

The crowds on the floor were more numerous and more tormented that the damned souls in Michelangel's "Last Judgement" on the east wall.  It was more crowded than any dance floor any of them could remember.  Nevertheless, they stared in wonder at the ceiling and the east wall.  They also admired the various frescos on the lower walls--done by Michelangelo's friends--Raphael, Dominicino, and Botticelli.  It was worth going through all the hassle to get there, but honestly, to really enjoy the pictures, it would be easier to buy a picture book or look at the pictures on the internet.  To LT, who had last visited the Sistine Chapel in the early 80's, it looked as if the restorations of the 90's had made things a bit too shiny and cartoonish.  It was a little darker and deeper back before the restorations.

One gallery on the way to the Sistine Chapel

Inside St. Peter's.

Next, the trio walked around the walls and entered the piazza Pio XII surrounding the Basilic di San Pietro.  They got in another long, long line, this time in the sun, but before 20 minutes had expired entered under the loggia of the church.  They were funneled into a narrow doorway, and gained entrance to the basilica.  On their right, they saw Michelangelo's "Pieta" shrouded in bullet-proof glass, in front of them, they saw the "baldachino" which covers the high altar.  Every religious treasure was on so grand a scale, that they felt like Lilliputians.  Also, the crowds were temendous.  All the pews and chairs had been removed, so 1000's of tourists could mass and mingle on the marble floor.  When they could stand the crowds no longer, they exited  and sought a friendly place to eat.

"il pranzo" at Hostaria del Bastioni just outside St. Peter's.

After several false starts, they found the Hostaria del Bastioni, right across the street from where they had lined up for the Vatican Museum.  They sat down at an outside table, protected from the sun by a canvas awning and ate insalata mista, calamari, sea bass (bronzino), and Verdichio vino bianco.  The waiter was friendly and helpful, and the hungry, happy tourists agreed that lunch was the best part of the day.  When the cheese course had been finished, they walked back down Via Ottaviano and took the metro to Piazza di Spagna.

LT and Allie pose in front of the Spanish Steps.

They got out at Piazza di Spagna and walked up and down the steps.  The sun was bright and hot and the Italian marble looked brilliant.  They walked down the Via Condotti--gazing at the Cartier, Bulgari, and Prada shops. 

Allie in Via Condotti; Spanish Steps in background

Back at the Spanish Steps, they saw the Keats Shelley Museum--Keats died in an apartment right next to the steps, and regretted that it would not open for another hour.

They re-joined the Metro, got off at Republica, and walked down Nazionale, Agostino di Petris until they reached their hotel.

Saturday evening, they once again travelled down Via Nazionale past all the shops (and past St. Paul’s Within the Walls—the Anglican Church in Rome).

LT standing just outside St. Paul's within the Walls--
the Anglican Church in Roman Catholic Rome

Then, they continued down Via Nazionale and returned to the Sicilian-influenced restaurant “Melo,” where, once again, they admired the views of ancient Rome.  Trajan’s column was right in front of them, and off to the left was a long line of broken Roman columns.  Inside the restaurant, they took their familiar “booth” where, after conferring with Vincenzo, Allie had grilled calamari, Eli had veal alla Siciliana, and LT chose lamb chopettes.   They once again opted for a litre of the light house “bianco” which seemed so easy to enjoy.

Happy diners at "Melo" restaurant.